How do I use it? (To print this page, click on 'File' , and select 'Print' or 'Print Preview'. Use Landscape formator Resize as necessary)[Text & Images Contain Registered Copyrighted Material of Internetional Business And logistics and its owner(s)]
Your situation will vary compared to ours when we typed up these instructions; eg ambient temperature and equipment used. Therefore, time settings and heat settings may vary. These instructions are only meant as a approximate guide so please use these instructions at your own risk. You may wish to utilize your own method if you know a better and safer way to utilise this item.

First and foremost, 5 things to remember at all times:

1. Know your Laser Printer - You must not use this laser transfer paper if you do not know how to, or are unable to clean or change the rollers and perform maintenance on your laser printer as you will risk damaging your printer with these laser transfer papers. Heat is required for the final transfer phase, yet laser printers also use heat to transfer the image to the transfer paper; as such, there is a natural risk of the transfer transferring to your printer's heating roller (this usually isn't fatal for laser printers, but can be annoying to clean). Any laser printer that has very old worn down rollers or heats paper above the paper's melting temperature should also be avoided where possible (or use at your own risk/ discretion). If the transfer paper gets 'transferred' to the printer roller, you will have to clean the rollers later, which is recommended anyway after each transfer (described further down).
2. Test sheets are an ABSOLUTE MUST!
: Before you start your main project, you must first cut out / make tiny 2cm x 2cm test transfer samples and try transferring those to identify the best temperatures and times to use with your equipment. Start from low temperatures (~100 degrees Celsius) and shorter heating times (10 seconds) and increase the temperature and heating time gradually till these test samples transfer properly. You can for example, print/transfer tiny name tags onto shirts or spare rag cloths or tissue paper first until you get the best temperature and time configuration, or you will risk ruining a lot of material and wasting a lot of transfer paper. If you are printing to Expensive fabrics and materials and don't have material to do test sheets on, you can try doing a test transfer on the inner sides of the garment or where mistakes will not be visible, eg: transferring to an expensive shirt turned inside-out; and if it fails, you should not use this transfer paper with that material or you might ruin it. Also note that if the temperature is too cold, your transfer won't stick, and if its too hot, it won't stick properly due to excessive melting, chemical breakdown and evaporation etc...
3. Mirror it! -
Use whatever laser printer or software you want, but remember, whatever is printed on TRANSPARENT paper will appear reversed like a mirror after you iron it on.
4. Avoid moisture - Laser Transfer paper is not easily damaged by moisture, but you should still store it away from moisture in an airtight bag/container when it is not in use to prevent it from degrading over time.
5. IMPORTANT: Blank Page Printer roller clean ( Do this quickly after each iron on printing session)- If any bits of transfer material peels off and gets stuck to the heating roller, you can usually remove them easily by printing a empty/blank document on white porus, 'Normal' everyday printing paper using your laser printer. (Inkjet copy paper works a lot better than laser printing paper which isn't very porus). Since the heating roll in your printer should not be porus, the transfer material sticking to your roller should be temporary unless your roller has cracks and is heavily worn down. Therefore, printing a pure white blank image will usually cause all the offending bits of transfer material stuck on the roller to stick to the blank piece of white paper that feeds through the roller when the next sheet of paper comes through. Alternatively, clean the roller manually based on the manufacturer's instructions.
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If you are ready to begin, please note the following instructions for the transfer process which are based on our experience with them.

Step 1 - Identifying which sides to use
Depending on what was advertised for your order, you should receive either transfer paper that gives you either a glossy or matte result, or a combination of both types.

To determine which sheets you have, look for the sheets that have a Shiny & Waxed surface on one side; these sheets will give you a glossy result.

The sheets that have multiple green iron symbols on one side instead of a shiny waxed surface, will give you a matte result.

These sides are the unprintable sides. Please don't draw or print images on these sides. We will call this Side A.

If you turn either of these sheets over, you will get Side B. Side B is Rubbery in Texture.

Try rubbing a tiny corner of each side with your fingers. The side which feels rubbery when you rub it is the side you should be printing on (Side B).

Step 2 - Designing your transfer
On Side B, print out your design that you want transferred using a laser printer. Use the manual sheet feeder if there is one, and be careful of the paper orientation as some laser printers flip the paper around during the feeding process differently for manual and automatic tray feeding.

Remember that your images will also appear mirrored (flipped) when making your design, so you may have to mirror them first to get the design correct (usually it is mirrored horizontally).

Be careful not to tear the surface.


Step 3 - Cutting to size
Cut your image to size if required, and be careful not to tear the rubbery surface film of Side B.
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Step 4 -Preparing for the transfer
The ironing process should be done on a dry, hard, flat, heat resistant surface (like a heat resistant counter-top, table or desk).

Empty the iron of all water and make sure it is will not emit any steam, then place the fabric on the hard heat resistant surface, turn the iron on and iron the fabric to evaporate all moisture from before the transfer process starts. This prevents bubbling later and evens the area out..

When you are ready, position Side B of the transfer Facing Down on the fabric (so the mirror image will be inverted and appear correctly after the transfer process).

Step 5 - Optional
(Optional - Avoid this step if you have trouble transferring the image) Cover the transfer paper with a 2nd layer of paper, or tissue paper or a thin cloth. This evens out the heat and protects your iron in case of leakage from the transfer.

Step 6 - Transfer process
Start ironing from the very edges in a smooth zig zag motion to squeeze out any hot air pockets and bubbles. Iron your transfer evenly into the intended fabric, and press hard. Follow the temperature and time which has proven to be the most effective with the test sheets that you should have done earlier. (10 to 30 seconds at about 150 to 210 degrees Celsius is an approximate average. Note that time/heat will differ for equipment, materials and irons. The transfer won't stick if it's ironed too hot or too cold or too quickly.

Step 7 - Peeling off
(If you are using the Matte Transfers, perform this step while the transfer is Still Very Hot. For the Gloss transfers, you can wait till they cool down) Quickly and carefully remove the 2nd protective layer and peel off Side A from the corners . Do this without burning yourself. (Reheat if necessary if it sticks too hard and or use tweezers if you would like - It's best to get someone to help you peel it off as the iron passes over it).
Step 8 - End
If ugly bubbles result, or if you would like to add texture to the transfer or improve the transfer's appearance, see the instructions below. Otherwise, let the transfer cool and dry for a few hours and then you can use it as normal. We washed it after 10 minutes with no problems, but we recommend waiting 24 hours.

Other Notes

Repairing or Rescuing Failed, Damaged, and Flaking (peeling) Transfers:
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Don't throw out damaged / failed projects! - You should be able to rescue them very easily with opaque transfer paper, or with the included wax sheet (wax paper).

If your transfer is peeling / flaking off after the wash, just cover it with a wax sheet which should be included with your order, and iron it again at maximum temperature using stronger pressure than before.

Alternatively, if your transfer has failed, torn or has been physically damaged or eroded, you can repair it using opaque transfer paper.

Note: This step requires Opaque transfer paper which is sold separately. Opaque transfers are needed for repairs because they come with an opaque background and are stackable.

In the event of damage and severe peeling over time, you can use opaque transfers to re-create (re-print) the image, and perform a transfer right over the failed / damaged transfer. However, because the opaque transfers have a white background, you also now need to print background colours to match your destination fabric.

Opaque transfers can be layered and stacked; this means you can iron a transfer on top of an existing transfer attempt - This is extremely useful for repairs.

Since the new transfer comes with a white background, the old previous transfer is basically covered up/obscured by the new transfer image placed on top of it. Therefore, the new transfer will be the only one visible. In otherwords, if a T-shirt transfer fails or suffers damage over time, don't throw out the T-shirt!. Just reprint the transfer (or just a section of the original image that is damaged), place it over the existing failed transfer or damaged section, cover it with wax paper and iron it as before. Let it cool down first and then peel off the wax paper, which should leave you with an even stronger transfer looking pretty much as good as new!

This is also useful if you wish to create raised texture effects.

Secret Method for Superior long life and unparalleled durability that is totally unmatched by other transfers on the market:

This method works on both our Opaque and Transparent transfers. To do this step, you need our transparent grade transfer paper. As mentioned earlier, our transfers are stackable. To enhance your transfer in this step, you need to take a blank sheet/piece of transparent transfer paper and iron it over your existing transfer. This creates a thick permanent layer of transparent coating over your transfer which shields and protects your existing transfer from any damage. With this extra layer, your transfer is several times stronger than normal, extremely waterproof, and very scratch resistant. The more layers you add, the more ridiculously strong the transfer becomes!.

Just how strong is it? We used the sharp end of scissors to scratch a transfer double coated using this technique. Not a single bit of the ink had come off after 20 moderate 90 degree scratches using the sharp tip of our scissors. That's far better than some commercial factory transfers we have come across from major brands!

You can even decide the desired surface texture based on the type of transfer paper used (matte/ gloss). Most customers prefer the matte transfers to do this extra layer as it results in a very natural look. (It is also easy to apply- at least when used over existing transfers due to the chemical bonds).

You can also add images and text with each layer at your discretion.

Improving the Appearance of the Transfer / Adding Texture / Removing Bubbles:
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If after performing your transfer, you end up with an uneven surface (or a surface with bubble craters that look like burst pimples), or would like to adjust the texture, just cover it with a single sheet of textured paper (preferably wax paper for the removal of bubbles, but normal laser photocopier / white inkjet printer paper will do fine), and then iron it for a 2nd time at maximum temperature briefly for a few seconds (or as long as its needed to remove the bubbles). Once done, let it cool and peel off the paper carefully. If you did not use wax paper, some residue may be left on the paper. (This is normal; if too much comes off, use wax paper instead). After this, the bubbles should have also disappeared (flattened down), and your transfer should have a new texture. We discovered by accident that this process usually improves the appearance of the transfer regardless of whether there are bubbles or not. You can use different textured paper to give the transfer a glossy, matte or patterned surface. This process works best with Transparent Gloss and Opaque transfer paper. The image below is taken from a real life demonstration. (Note: We are not aware of any brand called 'Gloriou Beans Coffee' at the time when this image was created by us in 2008, it is only used as an example).

Transferring the Image:
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HOT PEEL IS BEST : All Transparent Matte Grade Sheets (those with the iron symbols on it) must be peeled off when they are still Hot. If you let it cool, they may not peel off, or at worse, they will tear, causing a blotchy and patchy result. So keep the transfer hot as you peel it off. The Gloss grade sheets can be peeled off at any time, but peeling it off while hot will leave a nicer brighter initial image and a Matte finish; peeling it off when cold may leave a heavier layer of coating over the image which can lead to a better durability, and a heavy shiny glossy result..

HAND IRONING: Normally, the iron should be preheated to the hottest setting and be completely emptied of water and set to the dry setting. Iron the shirt to remove any wrinkles and excess moisture. Iron on a safe hard surface like a counter top. Do not iron on a wood, glass or metal surface. Place the transfer face down on the garment. Iron, using the heaviest pressure, in straight lines vertically and horizontally over the entire image. Make sure to overlap the edges. Iron each section of the paper evenly. Avoid ironing one part more than the rest. Each part of the transfer paper should be exposed to the heat for around 30 seconds, but you must utilize trial and error as per the test sheets for determining both the correct pressure and exposure times.

HEAT PRESS: Set the heat press to 340 - 370 degrees Farenheight (around 180 degrees Celsius). Prepress fabric for a few seconds to remove wrinkles and excess moisture. Place the transfer face down on the garment. Using medium pressure, press for 20-30 seconds.

Washing the completed garment / fabric after the transfer:
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It is recommended that you wait at least 24 hours prior to washing the fabric/garment for the first time after the transfer. For the initial wash, turn the garment inside out and wash separately in cool water. Immediately remove the garment from the washer and put in the dryer at a warm setting. If left wet in washer, the inks may bleed. This bleeding will end after a couple of washes and may not even occur with pigmented inks. NEVER use bleach. To iron the shirt, do not iron directly onto the transferred area.

Storage of unused paper :
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You can store paper that has images/text printed on it for some time before you transfer it to the fabric. Just ensure that the paper doesn't get damaged by water/moisture/sunlight etc) in storage prior to transferring to the fabric. After printing your design on the transfer paper, there is no officially set time limit to when you should do the transfer the transfer. The longest we waited was 1 week, and it still works fine after. The time interval though, varies based on the type of ink you use to create your image on the transfer paper, ie: how the toner interacts with the paper before it is printed.  Many factors influence shelf life after the image has been created on the paper. It should be able to be kept for weeks on end but we cannot officially recommend any set time because there are too many factors involved.

Preferably, return unused portion of paper to a sealed airtight bag or container with as little air, water and moisture in it as possible. Keep the unused paper or portions in a cool dry environment away from heating and cooling sources, and also avoid UV radiation such as the sun. Bent / warped paper may be flattened under a stack of books overnight (or by other methods that you can think of, except heat irons).

END OF INSTRUCTIONS