First and foremost, 5 things to remember at all times:

1. Know your Laser Printer - You must not use this laser transfer paper if you do not know how to, or are unable to clean or change the rollers and perform maintenance on your laser printer as you will risk damaging your printer with these laser transfer papers. Heat is required for the final transfer phase, yet laser printers also use heat to transfer the image to the transfer paper; as such, there is a natural risk of the transfer transferring to your printer's heating roller (this usually isn't fatal for laser printers, but can be annoying to clean). Any laser printer that has very old worn down rollers or heats paper above the paper's melting temperature should also be avoided where possible (or use at your own risk/ discretion). If the transfer paper gets 'transferred' to the printer roller, you will have to clean the rollers later, which is recommended anyway after each transfer (described further down).
2. Test sheets are an ABSOLUTE MUST! : Before you start your main project, you must first cut out / make tiny 2cm x 2cm test transfer samples and try transferring those to identify the best temperatures and times to use with your equipment. Start from low temperatures (~100 degrees Celsius) and shorter heating times (10 seconds) and increase the temperature and heating time gradually till these test samples transfer properly. You can for example, print/transfer tiny name tags onto shirts or spare rag cloths or tissue paper first until you get the best temperature and time configuration, or you will risk ruining a lot of material and wasting a lot of transfer paper. If you are printing to Expensive fabrics and materials and don't have material to do test sheets on, you can try doing a test transfer on the inner sides of the garment or where mistakes will not be visible, eg: transferring to an expensive shirt turned inside-out; and if it fails, you should not use this transfer paper with that material or you might ruin it. Also note that if the temperature is too cold, your transfer won't stick, and if its too hot, it won't stick properly due to excessive melting, chemical breakdown and evaporation etc...
3. Avoid moisture - Laser Transfer paper is not easily damaged by moisture, but you should still store it away from moisture in an airtight bag/container when it is not in use to prevent it from degrading over time.
4. IMPORTANT: Blank Page Printer roller clean ( Do this quickly after each iron on printing session)- If any bits of transfer material peels off and gets stuck to the heating roller, you can usually remove them easily by printing a empty/blank document on white porus, 'Normal' everyday printing paper using your laser printer. (Inkjet copy paper works a lot better than laser printing paper which isn't very porus). Since the heating roll in your printer should not be porus, the transfer material sticking to your roller should be temporary unless your roller has cracks and is heavily worn down. Therefore, printing a pure white blank image will usually cause all the offending bits of transfer material stuck on the roller to stick to the blank piece of white paper that feeds through the roller when the next sheet of paper comes through. Alternatively, clean the roller manually based on the manufacturer's instructions.
5. Do Not Mirror! - Use whatever inkjet printer or software you want, but remember, whatever is printed on OPAQUE paper will not appear reversed like a mirror after you iron it on.
[Text & Images Contain Registered Copyrighted Material of Internetional Business And logistics and its owner(s)]
If you are ready to begin, please note the following instructions. they are based on our experience with them.
[Text & Images Contain Registered Copyrighted Material of Internetional Business And logistics and its owner(s)]

Step 1 - Identifying which sides to use If you have your Transfer paper in front of you, notice that there are 2 sides on this paper. Side A is Smooth & Shiny in Texture Side B is Smooth & Shiny AND Rubbery in Texture. Try scratching a tiny corner of each side. The side which feel rubbery when you scratch it is the side you need to print on (Side B). We Strongly recommend you 'mark' Side A for reference- make a small invisible indentation mark using a pen, or anything that allows you to identify it later. (You will need to re-use this side later in the transfer process since it is waxed. It may seem obvious now, but it will be hard to tell later after you peel off side B. )
Step 2 - Designing your transfer On Side B, print out your design that you want transferred using a laser printer. Use the manual sheet feeder if there is one, and be careful of the paper orientation as some laser printers flip the paper around during the feeding process differently for manual and automatic tray feeding. Be careful not to tear the surface.
Step 3 - Cutting to size Cut your image to size if required, be careful not to tear the rubbery surface film of Side B. [Text & Images Contain Registered Copyrighted Material of Internetional Business And logistics and its owner(s)]
Step 4 -Seperating the layers Very Carefully peel off SIDE B from the back paper SIDE A, and cut it to size. Be careful not to tear the rubbery surface of Side B. Keep the left over paper (Don't throw away Side A. You will need to re-use this side later in the transfer process since it is waxed)
Step 5 -Preparing for the transfer The ironing process should be done on a hard, flat, heat resistant surface (like a heat resistant counter-top, table or desk). Place the fabric on the hard heat resistant surface and position Side B Facing Up On the fabric just as you would like it to look in the final result.
Step 6 -Wax Paper < Be Careful Here! > To ensure your printed piece only sticks to the fabric it is sitting on, use the Waxed side of Wax Paper to cover Side B while you iron it on to the fabric. So when you transfer the image, Side B only sticks to the fabric it is sitting on, and not to your iron. (If you don't have wax paper, use ONLY the face of Side A which you marked earlier in Step 1. It is also waxed, so you can use it perfectly well. Be careful as Both sides on that paper now look glossy- if in doubt, use the less glossy face of Side A as it is indicative of wax). If you use the non waxed side, the transfer will glue the paper and the fabric together.
Step 7 - Cover Cover the transfer paper with a 2nd thin layer of paper, or tissue paper or a thin cloth. This evens out the heat and protects your iron in case of leakage from the transfer. Step 8- Transfer process Iron your transfer into the intended fabric at the temperature and time which has proven to be the most effective with the test sheets that you should have done earlier. (20 to 30 seconds at about 190 degrees Celsius is an approximate average. Note that time/heat will differ for equipment, materials and irons). Step 9 - Peeling off Let the transfer cool down and carefully remove the 2nd protective layer, then peel off Side A(or the waxed paper) from the corners without burning yourself. (Reheat if necessary if it sticks too hard and or use tweezers if you would like) Step 10 - End If ugly bubbles result, or if you would like to add texture to the transfer or improve the transfer's appearance, see the instructions below. Otherwise, let the transfer cool and dry for a few hours and then you can use it as normal. We washed it after 10 minutes with no problems, but we recommend waiting 24 hours.

Other Notes

Repairing or Rescuing Failed, Damaged, and Flaking (peeling) Transfers:
[Text & Images Contain Registered Copyrighted Material of Internetional Business And logistics and its owner(s)]
Don't throw out damaged / failed projects! - You should be able to rescue them very easily with opaque transfer paper, or with the included wax sheet (wax paper).

If your transfer is peeling / flaking off after the wash, just cover it with a wax sheet which should be included with your order, and iron it again at maximum temperature using stronger pressure than before.

Alternatively, if your transfer has failed, torn or has been physically damaged or eroded, you can repair it using opaque transfer paper.

In the event of damage and severe peeling over time, simply re-create (re-print) the image using these opaque transfers, and repeat the transfer process right over the failed / damaged transfer (basically cover it).

Opaque transfers can be layered and stacked; this means you can iron a transfer on top of an existing transfer attempt - This is extremely useful for repairs.

Since the new transfer comes with a white background, the old previous transfer is basically covered up/obscured by the new transfer image placed on top of it. Therefore, the new transfer will be the only one visible. In otherwords, if a T-shirt transfer fails or suffers damage over time, don't throw out the T-shirt!. Just reprint the transfer (or just a section of the original image that is damaged), place it over the existing failed transfer or damaged section, cover it with wax paper and iron it as before. Let it cool down first and then peel off the wax paper, which should leave you with an even stronger transfer looking pretty much as good as new!

This is useful if you wish to create raised texture effects.

Secret Method for Superior long life and unparalleled durability that is totally unmatched by other transfers on the market:

This method works on both our Opaque and Transparent transfers.

Note: This step requires Transparent iron-on transfer paper which is sold separately. Transparent transfers are needed for because they are see-through.

As mentioned earlier, our transfers are stackable. This means, you can take a blank sheet/piece of transparent transfer paper and iron it over your existing transfer. This creates a thick permanent layer of transparent coating over your transfer which shields and protects your existing transfer from any damage. With this extra layer, your transfer is several times stronger than normal, extremely waterproof, and very scratch resistant. The more layers you add, the more ridiculously strong the transfer becomes!

Just how strong is it? We used the sharp end of scissors to scratch a transfer double coated using this technique. Not a single bit of the ink had come off after 20 moderate 90 degree scratches using the sharp tip of our scissors. That's far better than some commercial factory transfers we have come across from major brands!

You can even decide the desired surface texture based on the type of transfer paper used (matte/ gloss). Most customers prefer the matte transfers to do this extra layer as it results in a very natural look. (It is also easy to apply- at least when used over existing transfers due to the chemical bonds).

You can also add images and text with each layer at your discretion.

Improving the Appearance of the Transfer / Adding Texture / Removing Bubbles:
[Text & Images Contain Registered Copyrighted Material of Internetional Business And logistics and its owner(s)]
If after performing your transfer, you end up with an uneven surface (or a surface with bubble craters that look like burst pimples), or would like to adjust the texture, just cover it with a single sheet of textured paper (preferably wax paper for the removal of bubbles, but normal laser photocopier / white inkjet printer paper will do fine), and then iron it for a 2nd time at maximum temperature briefly for a few seconds (or as long as its needed to remove the bubbles). Once done, let it cool and peel off the paper carefully. If you did not use wax paper, some residue may be left on the paper. (This is normal; if too much comes off, use wax paper instead). After this, the bubbles should have also disappeared (flattened down), and your transfer should have a new texture. We discovered by accident that this process usually improves the appearance of the transfer regardless of whether there are bubbles or not. You can use different textured paper to give the transfer a glossy, matte or patterned surface. This process works best with Transparent Gloss and Opaque transfer paper. The image below is taken from a real life demonstration. (Note: We are not aware of any brand called 'Gloriou Beans Coffee' at the time when this image was created by us in 2008, it is only used as an example)

Transferring the Image:
[Text & Images Contain Registered Copyrighted Material of Internetional Business And logistics and its owner(s)]
HAND IRONING: The iron should be preheated to the hottest setting and be completely emptied of water and set to the dry setting. Iron the shirt to remove any wrinkles and excess moisture. Iron on a safe hard surface like a counter top. Do not iron on a wood, glass or metal surface. Place the transfer face down on the garment. Iron, using the heaviest pressure, in straight lines vertically and horizontally over the entire image. Make sure to overlap the edges. Obviously, iron each section of the paper evenly. Don't iron one part more than the rest. The Fabric should cool completely and then the excess paper that isn't part of the transfer should be peeled away using an even motion. Each part of the transfer paper should be exposed to the heat for around 30 seconds, but you must utilize trial and error for determining both the pressure and exposure times. Ironing times may therefore vary from as little as 10 seconds to 1 minute for any section of transfer paper.

HEAT PRESS: Set the heat press to 340 - 350 degrees Fahrenheit (around 170 degrees Celsius). Prepress fabric for a few seconds to remove wrinkles and excess moisture. Allow the garment to cool. Place the transfer face down on the garment. Using medium pressure, press for 20 seconds. The transfer paper can be removed while hot or you can allow the transfer to cool before removing paper in an even motion. A hot peel will leave a brighter initial image and a Matte finish. The cold peel with leave a heavier layer of coating over the image which can lead to a better durability.

Ironing / Washing the completed garment / fabric after the transfer:
[Text & Images Contain Registered Copyrighted Material of Internetional Business And logistics and its owner(s)]
It is recommended that you wait at least 24 hours prior to washing the fabric/garment for the first time after the transfer. For the initial wash, turn the garment inside out and wash separately in cool water. Immediately remove the garment from the washer and put in the dryer at a warm setting. NEVER use bleach. To iron the shirt, do not iron directly onto the transferred area.

Storage of unused paper :
[Text & Images Contain Registered Copyrighted Material of Internetional Business And logistics and its owner(s)]
You can store paper that has images/text printed on it for some time before you transfer it to the fabric. Just ensure that the paper doesn't get damaged by water/moisture/sunlight etc) in storage prior to transferring to the fabric. After printing your design on the transfer paper, there is no officially set time limit to when you should do the transfer the transfer. The longest we waited was 1 week, and it still works fine after. The time interval though, varies based on the type of ink you use to create your image on the transfer paper, ie: how the toner interacts with the paper before it is printed.  Many factors influence shelf life after the image has been created on the paper. It should be able to be kept for weeks on end but we cannot officially recommend any set time because there are too many factors involved.

Preferably, return unused portion of paper to a sealed airtight bag or container with as little air, water and moisture in it as possible. Keep the unused paper or portions in a cool dry environment away from heating and cooling sources, and also avoid UV radiation such as the sun. Bent / warped paper may be flattened under a stack of books overnight (or by other methods that you can think of, except heat irons).

Colour Matching Advanced Users / Complicated images with undefined borders for opaque transfers:
[Text & Images Contain Registered Copyrighted Material of Internetional Business And logistics and its owner(s)]
Opaque transfer paper doesn't merge into the background like our transparent transfer sheets. That means that any unprinted area will appear white after transferring. so if you want to create more detailed images with detailed or blurred boundaries, it would be best to colour the unprinted areas with the same colour as the background fabric, and matching the colour may be difficult unless you are willing to make solid borders or using an obvious dead end colour, like Black. To solve this you may need to do a colour match, using a colour matching sheet printed from a computer image (visit the original instructions on the advertisment listing for a link to download one, or you can create/use your own rainbow sheet); an example is shown below:

END OF INSTRUCTIONS